Each year, we come together to celebrate National Ice Cream Day on the third Sunday of July. As we revel in the joys of National Ice Cream Month, let's embark on a journey through the origins of this beloved dessert.

What is Ice Cream?

Ice cream, by definition, is a frozen dessert primarily crafted from milk or cream, sweetened with sugar or suitable alternatives, and embellished with flavors such as spices, fruits, or other delightful ingredients. In the United States, a frozen dessert earns the coveted title of "ice cream" only if it boasts at least 10% milkfat and maintains an overrun of no more than 100%.

While establishing a definition for ice cream is a straightforward task, delving into its intricate history reveals a much more complex endeavor. Throughout the centuries, this frozen delight has evolved through the rich contributions of various cultures and regions, making its historical journey a captivating and intriguing one.

Early Frozen Desserts

The origins of frozen desserts are wrapped in an enigmatic shroud, but multiple accounts offer glimpses into their historical tapestry.

Food writer and historian Tori Avey has unearthed numerous myths and legends about the birth of ice cream. One fable suggests that Marco Polo stumbled upon this frozen treasure during his journeys in the Far East and transported the concept back to Europe. Another romanticized tale attributes the introduction of ice cream to France by Catherine de Medici upon her marriage to King Henry II. While these stories brim with romance, their historical veracity remains dubious. Nevertheless, the International Dairy Foods Association provides an alternative perspective.

"Over a thousand years later, Marco Polo returned to Italy from the Far East with a recipe that closely resembled what is now called sherbet," the website posits. "Historians estimate that this recipe evolved into ice cream sometime in the 16th century."

Intriguingly, ice cream-like creations can be traced back to ancient Persia as early as 550 BC, according to various historical sources. The Persians ingeniously harnessed ice houses and ice pools to master the art of creating and serving year-round delicacies like faloodeh and sorbets.

Dr. Keveh Farrokh suggests that the age-old Persian refreshment known as Sharbat was enriched by the Arabs, who had conquered the Persian Empire at the time, with the addition of milk and sugar. This fusion laid the foundation for modern granita and gelato.

"Biblical passages allude to King Solomon relishing cooling iced beverages during the harvest season. Alexander the Great of ancient Greece took pleasure in icy drinks flavored with honey or wine," according to Avey. "During Nero's reign in Rome from 54-68 BC, ice was harvested from nearby mountains and stored in deep pits covered with straw. This practice of ice preservation, in lieu of refrigeration, endured for centuries."

Farrokh goes on to describe Persia (modern-day Iran) as having a remarkable ice cream-making heritage spanning over 2,000 years. The inspiration for the design of ice cream is believed to have been derived from a cone-shaped structure called Yakchal, found in the region. As early as 400 BC, Persians utilized the underground spaces of Yakchal to store ice cream, capitalizing on the structure's heat-resistant materials that aided in preserving this delectable treat amidst scorching temperatures.

At some point, it is believed that the process and recipe for crafting Persian Faloodeh ice cream traveled to Italy, where machinery was developed to simplify the ice cream-making process.

These early innovations, although vastly different from contemporary ice cream, marked the inception of a frozen dessert legacy that continues to tantalize taste buds today.

Historical records from the Tang dynasty mention a chilled dessert made from flour, camphor, and water buffalo milk. Kakigori, a Japanese dessert, originated during the Heian period when blocks of ice were shaved and served with sweet syrup, delighting the Japanese aristocracy. The earliest documented process for artificially producing ice dates back to the 13th century, as detailed by the Arab historian Ibn Abi Usaybi'a. The advent of the endothermic effect, where the addition of salt lowered the melting point of ice, proved instrumental in freezing cream.

Interestingly, it seems that England may have encountered ice cream around the same time, if not earlier than the Italians. Referred to as 'Cream Ice,' this delightful dessert frequently graced the table of Charles I during the 17th century.

England's Early Encounters with Ice Cream

Historical records, such as those found in Wikipedia, provide other instances where references to ice cream and flavored ices emerge in print:

The first documented appearance of ice cream in England is traced back to 1671 when Elias Ashmole described a dish of ice cream served at the Feast of St George in Windsor for Charles II. Notably, the only table adorned with ice cream was that of the King. The first published ice cream recipe in English surfaced in 1718 in a book titled "Mrs. Mary Eales's Receipts," dedicated to confectionery, published in London.

The 1751 edition of "The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy" by Hannah Glasse featured a recipe for ice cream: "H. GLASSE Art of Cookery (ed. 4) 333 (heading) To make Ice Cream...set it [sc. the cream] into the larger Bason. Fill it with Ice, and a Handful of Salt."

In 1768, M. Emy published "L'Art de Bien Faire les Glaces d'Office," a cookbook exclusively devoted to recipes for flavored ices and ice cream.

In 1769, Domenico Negri, an Italian confectioner, established a business in Berkeley Square, London, which would gain fame for its ice creams. His shop operated under the Sign of the Pineapple (an emblem used by confectioners), and his trade card boasted a selection of "All Sorts of English, French and Italian wet and dry'd Sweet Meats, Cedrati and Bergamot Chips, Naples Diavoloni, All sorts of Baskets & Cakes, fine and Common Sugar plums..." but most significantly, "...all Sorts of Ice, Fruits, and creams in the best Italian manner."

In 1789, Frederick Nutt, who had apprenticed at Negri's establishment, published "The Complete Confectioner," a book featuring thirty-one diverse recipes for ice creams, some incorporating fresh fruit, others utilizing jams, and some employing fruit syrups. The flavors spanned from ginger and chocolate to brown breadcrumbs and a uniquely Parmesan cheese-flavored variety.

France

France encountered similar frozen delights in 1553, thanks to Italian Catherine de Medici, who became the wife of Henry II of France, as noted by the International Dairy Foods Association. However, it wasn't until 1660 that ice cream became accessible to the general public. The Sicilian Procopio introduced a recipe that blended milk, cream, butter, and eggs at Café Procope, the first café in Paris.

In the annals of time, dating as far back as 1665, the "Catalogue des Marchandises rares," meticulously curated by Jean Fargeon in Montpellier, made an intriguing revelation—a frozen sorbet that beckoned the curious by plunging a container into a mixture of ice and saltpetre. In the captivating narrative of Paris, a practice emerged in the 16th century, one that would evolve with each passing year. Then, in 1682, an exceptional recipe for a particular type of ice cream graced the culinary scene, bearing the elegant moniker "neige de fleur d'orange." This delectable revolution continued its march as Francesco dei Coltelli unveiled the first ice cream café in Paris in the year 1686, setting the stage for an era when numerous cafés sprouted across the city in the years that followed. And in a culinary crescendo, the French introduced their first recipe for flavored ices in 1674, paving the way for more to follow in 1694 and 1692, courtesy of the accomplished Antonio Latini and François Massialot, each with their distinct vision for the final product's texture and flavor.

Amid the treasure trove of Parisian delights, Raimo claims the distinction of being the oldest ice cream parlor in the city, with roots stretching back to 1947. Revered as a bastion of tradition and history, it has held a special place in the hearts of Parisians and visitors alike. Yet, when it comes to vying for popularity and recognition, one name shines brightest—Berthillon. Established in 1954 on the charming Ile Saint Louis, Berthillon has become synonymous with exquisite ice cream in the heart of Paris.

America

The chronicle of ice cream on American shores unfolds in a letter written in 1744 by a guest of Maryland Governor William Bladen—a mention that marked the first documented encounter with this frozen delight in the New World. Fast forward to May 12, 1777, and the New York Gazette's pages unveiled the earliest advertisement for ice cream in the United States, promising its availability "almost every day" courtesy of confectioner Philip Lenzi. Records paint a picture of President George Washington's summertime indulgence, with an expenditure of approximately $200—equivalent to a substantial $6,594.87 in today's currency—on ice cream in 1790. Further historical insights reveal President Thomas Jefferson's penchant for an 18-step recipe, creating an ice cream delight akin to the modern-day Baked Alaska, now preserved in the Library of Congress's archives. And at President Madison's second inaugural banquet at the White House in 1813, Dolley Madison showcased her culinary prowess with a splendid strawberry ice cream creation.

Around the dawn of the 19th century, the landscape of frozen treats underwent a seismic transformation. Until then, ice cream had been a rare and luxurious dessert reserved for the privileged few. However, the invention of insulated ice houses marked a turning point, propelling ice cream into an emerging industry in America. The narrative finds its pioneer in Jacob Fussell, a Baltimore milk dealer, who, in 1851, dared to venture into mass ice cream production.

As with various sectors in America, technological advances spurred the remarkable growth of ice cream production. Steam power, mechanical refrigeration, the homogenizer, electric power, packing machines, and innovations in freezing processes and equipment revolutionized the art of crafting ice cream. The advent of motorized delivery vehicles further democratized the indulgence, making ice cream accessible to a broader audience. In this era of progress, ice cream evolved from a rare delicacy to a cherished treat enjoyed by many.

The late 19th century ushered in a new era of widespread availability for ice cream, giving birth to an array of new treats. In 1874, the American soda fountain shop made its debut, giving rise to the iconic "soda jerk" profession with the creation of the ice cream soda. To counter religious criticism surrounding the consumption of ice cream sodas on Sundays, resourceful merchants removed the carbonated water and introduced the "ice cream 'Sunday'" in the late 1890s. Over time, it assumed its familiar name, the "sundae," thus disconnecting it from any ties to the Sabbath.

The United States can also claim the invention of soft-serve ice cream, which made its grand entrance into the market during the 1930s.

A Symbol of Sweet Victory: Ice Cream in World War II

World War II witnessed ice cream emerging as a symbol of morale-boosting delight. Each branch of the military engaged in creative and spirited competitions to serve ice cream to its troops. In 1945, a "floating ice cream parlor" was ingeniously crafted to cater to sailors in the western Pacific. As the war drew to a close and rationing of dairy products lifted, the United States celebrated its triumph with ice cream, turning the sweet treat into a delectable tribute to victory.

The Post-War Era and Beyond

From the 1940s through to the 1970s, ice cream production in the United States remained steady. However, the ascendancy of prepackaged ice cream in supermarkets ushered in a decline in traditional ice cream parlors and soda fountains. In their place, a new wave of specialty ice cream stores and unique restaurants dedicated to crafting delightful ice cream creations took root, becoming immensely popular. These establishments catered to the nostalgia of those who reminisced about the ice cream shops and soda fountains of yesteryears, while also winning the hearts of a fresh generation of enthusiastic ice cream aficionados.

In the tapestry of American ice cream history, the oldest ice cream maker and parlor is none other than Bassetts in Philadelphia. A Quaker school teacher and farmer named Lewis Dubois Bassett embarked on his ice cream-making journey in his backyard, harnessing a mule-powered butter churn in 1861. By 1885, he had begun selling his ice cream at a location on 5th and Market Street, eventually moving to the iconic Reading Terminal Market in 1892. To this day, Bassetts remains under the ownership and operation of the founder's great-great-grandsons, ensuring the preservation of a storied tradition. With a delightful array of 40 ice cream, sorbet, and frozen yogurt flavors, Bassetts continues to capture the hearts and palates of ice cream enthusiasts. Among their offerings, the perennial favorites include vanilla, cookies & cream, and mint chocolate chip.

While history may not offer a singular account of ice cream's birth and inventor, it speaks with unanimous fervor of one irrefutable truth: ice cream is a universally cherished and undeniably delicious delight.