When Harry Styles, the 29-year-old former One Direction member, steps out in a strawberry-print T-shirt, parcheesi green pants, or a pearl necklace, it's not just a display of personal style; it becomes a trend-setting moment. From sportswear and plaid to the wardrobe of the British monarchy, the United Kingdom has significantly shaped the fashion landscape. One of its most illustrious designers, Vivienne Westwood, not only left an indelible mark on fashion but was also an activist ahead of her time, advocating for vegetarianism and decrying the environmental impact of mass clothing production. British fashion has not only influenced European trends through the quality of cut and tailoring but also through bold innovations like Mary Quant's miniskirt and the juxtaposition of tradition and innovation by designers such as Alexander McQueen. The Kunstmuseum (Art Museum) in The Hague, Netherlands, has delved into its extensive collection to present the "Royals & Rebels" exhibit, a thematic journey that pays homage to Westwood's legacy and remains open until January 7, 2024.
With a collection of 50,000 clothing pieces and accessories, including 15,000 illustrations, the museum showcases approximately 150 items for this exhibition. Some of these pieces are sourced from private collections and other art galleries, offering a thematic exploration spanning the 18th to the 21st century—navigating from the countryside to the city to the palace. The exhibition unfolds through flower-filled gardens with silk-draped ladies, visits to the Ascot horse races with impeccably dressed women, and a stop at the Wimbledon tennis tournament with its mid-length skirts. Along the way, spectators encounter boldly striped jackets worn during the Cambridge-Oxford regattas and a parade of trench coats, displaying various lengths, textures, and shapes. The exhibit features opulent corseted dresses alongside the simple floral frocks of Welsh designer Laura Ashley, whose prints dominated the fashion scene in the 1970s and 1980s. It also explores the styles from the London Underground, showcasing 1960s miniskirts and geometric fabrics.
Amidst this diverse fashion journey, the exhibition highlights the distinctive style of Vivienne Westwood, a rebel who transitioned from punk to the new romantics of the 1980s and the British Heritage movement. According to Madelief Hohé, the curator of the exhibition, Westwood's influence extends beyond her era, as many of her dresses have become classics, inspiring both her contemporaries and the younger generation. Westwood's clothes initially reflected the political and social context of the 1970s and the disillusioned youth in the UK. Over time, her T-shirts with vindictive slogans have become iconic, and the exhibition features examples of famous dresses, such as the wedding dress worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City (2008), symbolizing the enduring legacy of Westwood's designs.
Surrounded by dresses crafted from silk, wool, and cotton, complemented by mannequins adorned with period-appropriate hairstyles and hats, Hohé emphasizes the significant impact of British fashion on men's clothing during the 19th century. The style was characterized by sobriety and distinction, marking a departure from the frills of menswear that prevailed until the French Revolution. British tailors gained prominence, even making a name for themselves in neighboring countries. Noteworthy among them was Charles Frederick Worth, who attracted a substantial American clientele from his Paris headquarters. In the 18th century, both France and the United Kingdom led the way in style, influencing European courts. The exhibition underscores the enduring appeal of British style, attributed to its exceptional cut and tailoring, which persisted despite the transformative influence of Coco Chanel.
A key piece in the exhibit is a 1966 tweed dress by Coco Chanel, showcasing the designer's innovation in adapting casual and masculine tweed fabric with light textures to liberate women from corsets. Chanel's stay in the United Kingdom played a pivotal role in inspiring her, drawing from the sporty suits of her lover, Hugh Grosvenor, Duke of Westminster. The exhibition also features signature pieces by Edward Molyneux, Stella McCartney, John Galliano, and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. Among these trendsetters is Princess Diana, celebrated for her "free-spirited" approach to fashion, departing from royal norms and setting an example of social approachability that continues to influence contemporary courts.
A poignant showcase includes the Catherine Walker dress worn by Princess Diana during the summer of her death in 1997, juxtaposed with a Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel suit jacket. The exhibit not only captures the luminous delicacy of Lady Di's embroidered roses dress but also the somber elegance of the black suit jacket she wore during times of grief. The exhibition concludes with the iconic red wool sweater adorned with white sheep and one black one, symbolizing Lady Di's subtle rebellion against the royal family's expectations. The sweater, known as "Diana's sweater," has endured for three decades and carries a profound message. The original is set to be auctioned, emphasizing how Lady Di's legacy persists as a "royal rebel."
As visitors journey through this captivating exhibition, they witness the intricate tapestry of British fashion—from heritage-laden plaid patterns to Westwood's avant-garde creations and Lady Diana's free-spirited elegance. Beyond celebrating individual designers, the exhibition underscores the collective impact of British fashion on the broader European context. The interplay of tradition, rebellion, and innovation continues to define the essence of British design—a legacy reverberating through the runways of Europe and beyond.